Hello Again at Hotevilla, the Third Mesa of Hopi (October 11, 2003)
On the day of August 10, 2003, I decided to visit Hopi people at Second Mesa.
When I was 20 years old, I met an English guy who was a peace activist in St. Louis. I talked with him for a long time, and we talked about the history of Hopi. Then, this guy said that I should visit Hopi People in Hotevilla at the third mesa, the place where the most traditional Hopi people live. He gave me the address of peace activist in Flagstaff, and he gave me a ride to Hotevilla. That's why I met Denis at Hotevilla.
The reason why I am curious about Hopi is that this tribe has no history of war, except the one, the uprising of Pueblo. Also I was curious about the story of Big Mountain, where the uranium was mined to make atomic bombs which were dropped Hiroshima and Nagasaki. This Big Mountain was the sacred place of Hopi people and they protected it for a long time. However, in 1930s, the United Sates government announced to Hopi that if Hopi people do not leave this mountain, they will kill all the Hopi people. At last, Hopi people left this mountain with regret. Then, the tragedy happened.
On the way to go to Third Mesa
I rented my friend's car, and left Arcosanti, the place where I interned, to Hotevilla. I was half worried whether he remembers me or not, and whether he says welcome to me or not.
At Hotevilla, I couldn't find Denis' house, because he moved to the new place. However, one nice old woman showed me his new house very kindly.
Then, I met Denis. He had no difficulty to tell who I am, and said "hi, come in." It relieved my tension. I asked why it was so easy to tell me, and he said "your hair changed, but the voice is the same."
View of Hotevilla
Last time when I visit them, Denis did not have water pipe, any electricity and gas. However, now, he has refrigerator, small kitchen and radio. It is a big change from three years ago. However, he still does not have water pipe which is connected to the Water Tower. This Water Tower was built by the US government, and also the symbol of the oppression for some Hopi people. Probably Denis has a pride as a descendant of Dan Katchongva, the activist who fought for the independence of Native American.
While I was talking to him, I realized that he remember all of the small talks what we did three years ago. He remembers that he passed me the binocular on the night of full moon without words. Also he remembers the discussion of rainbow color, his ancestor and so on. Normally, Native American people is very quiet and do not talk a lot, and so Denis is. In their communication, silence is also the part of communication, and I was getting used to it. Actually, it was very difficult to understand it at first. At the end of the conversation, he gave me a book which was written by his grandfather. He said that this book cannot be sold, because this is a book of Hopi doctrine, not for sale. I liked this idea.
We talked for a while, and then Pearl, the wife of Denis, made me a traditional Hopi soup. This soup is very frugal only with beans, and when you eat, drip the Hopi bread looks like Inidian Nan. It was quite similar to the traditional food in Rumania. When I met Pearl three years ago, she treated this Japanese stranger like an air, but in this time, she talked to me with totally broken English. It was very nice.
At night, I met some of Denis' friend. One guy needed a ride to the next village which is 6 miles away, so I gave him a ride. When I arrived this village, Denic asked me $40. So, I asked why. He said that he want to get pot. I said that I am not here to get pot for you, and I have no money to pay it for you. However, he said that he cannot drink alcohol, and this is only the hobby of him. When he asked me a favor, his face was so tragic. I know, he is very poor and this is a chance for him to get it, but I didn't like this idea. Then, he offered me that he will make small sculpture for me as an exchange for $40. Still I did not like this idea, but I said OK. I didn't like the argument about small things. After he got this stuff, he came back to the car and said "I appreciate it," but I felt that he is an old guy without energy. I was sponged off, and I was sad. There is a double standard, to pass the holy book freely, and ask money for drugs.
This kind of things happened again at night. Denis' house does not have restroom, so I have to walk 5 minutes to use it. At night, I was lost on the way back to home, so I asked the direction to the young guy. He didn't say anything except the words "$5 dollars." It made me sad. These things happen everywhere in the poor country, and it always makes me sad. This is not because of them, but the situation of poorness makes them like this.
Cornfield of Denis
Next morning, I woke up at 7, and we went the blue corn field owned by Denis. Now, Denis does not have his own car, so he walks to his field every morning almost an hour.
Last time when I visit here, he was making not only blue corn but also water melons and grapes. Now, he only makes blue corns, because blur corn does not need too much water. Today, we cleaned the field by weeding, and also pulled out the corns of small stem. Corns need the high productivity of soil, so if too many corns are at the one place, it doesn't grow well. We spent whole day for this, and came back to Hotevilla.
The sad thing is that I couldn't meet Denisia, the daughter of Denis. When I saw her, she was only 10, so she might be changed a lot. However, she is on the school trip to Phoenix. Last time, Denisia was so excited to meet me again, so it was so regretful.
I had a work of internship at Arcosanti, so I can stay there only one day. When I said good bye to him, he said "thank you for remembering us." I said that it is impossible to forget about Hopi people. However, I do not want to see the people with social pressure anymore. Always I wonder what I can do, and what I cannot do, and the best way to do.
(C) Copyright Shinya Watanabe